Polanco greeted us like an old friend with impeccable taste, and the Kimpton Virgilio was waiting with open arms, a chilled welcome drink, and the promise of mischief tucked into its corners. This boutique hotel may sit in one of Mexico City’s most refined districts, but there’s nothing stiff or overly polished about it. Instead, Kimpton Virgilio seems to smile at you the moment you arrive, as if it knows you’re about to be spoiled.
Checking in was swift. Norma and Pedro walked us through the lobby with easy warmth, while Guillermo handed us a selection of signature scents to choose from for our room. It’s a small touch, but being able to pick your room’s fragrance for the stay feels like magic. Angel, the concierge, casually mentioned he’d be available via WhatsApp if we needed anything, perfect in a city where public WiFi seems to flow more generously than traffic. The Kimpton Virgilio doesn’t shout. It raises an eyebrow, winks, and pours you a cocktail.
A Building with Secrets
Part of the hotel’s charm is that it has lived a few lives already. Back in the 1940s, this very building was one of the first multi-story residences in Polanco. During World War II, it offered refuge to European families who fled across the Atlantic, bringing with them a European vibe that forever shaped the neighbourhood with cute bakeries, parks and architectural elegance. You can still feel those stories lingering in the preserved Art Deco façade, now protected as a piece of national heritage. Inside, history mingles with contemporary design: patterned tiles and heritage details rub shoulders with sleek lines and modern comfort. It’s like stepping into a space that remembers its past but refuses to live in it.
Kimpton Virgilio’s Rooms with Character
Back in your room, the playful charm continues. There are only 48 in total, which means things feel intimate rather than sprawling. Each is layered with mid-century furniture and details that speak of place: locally woven rugs, artisanal furniture, handmade tiles, and naturally inspired artwork that nods to Mexico’s thriving art scene. There’s modern comfort, too, plush beds dressed in crisp linens, yoga mats tucked into corners, minibars stocked with locally sourced treats that are as thoughtful as they are tasty.
Bathrooms deserve their own applause: black steel-framed glass, dark green tiles, and patterned floors give them a quiet drama. It’s the sort of bathroom that inspires renovation plans the moment you get home.
Courtyard Mornings
Mornings at Kimpton Virgilio begin under a canopy of cascading greenery. The central courtyard is surrounded by balconies around which the rooms are located, with plants tumbling into the space as if the building itself is eager to join you for breakfast. Coffee is simple, the way Mexico does it best, and the selection of pastries makes you briefly consider abandoning sightseeing for second helpings. It’s a place where time stretches; the bustle of Polanco seems to pause outside the walls while you linger over one of the delectable menu dishes. I had the açai bowl, which was utterly delicious, but all the usual Mexican egg options were present too.
Kimpton Virgilio’s Rooftop Escape
Eventually, though, the rooftop calls. The pool isn’t just an amenity, it’s a postcard waiting to happen. By day, it’s a cool blue sanctuary above the treetops, the kind of place where ordering a cocktail at noon feels not indulgent but culturally appropriate. By night, the atmosphere shifts: cabanas hum with conversation, live DJs set the mood, and La Caña, the rooftop bar, becomes a stage for seafood, cocktails, and general conviviality.
We made a stop here after a long day of adventures in the city and it was the perfect place to have a quick dip and cool off. Floating above the city, we watched glass towers and treetops stretch toward the horizon… just in time for the afternoon clouds of the rainy season to gather in the distance… fortunately as Mexico veterans, we recognised the signs and retreated indoors just as the wind picked up, but before the heavens opened. (Tip: yes, rainy season in Mexico is often confined to afternoon storms that allow you to enjoy hot, sticky mornings of sunshine, but double your travel time if you’re heading out during these sudden downpours. Never underestimate the chaos of Mexico City traffic!)
Exploring Polanco and Beyond
When you do head out, Mexico City arranges itself like a treasure hunt and if it’s your first time, you almost certainly won’t have time to do it all. One direction takes you to Parque Lincoln, where leafy paths make the perfect prelude to a museum day. Head further, and you’ll reach Chapultepec, one of the largest urban parks in the world, home to a castle, a zoo, and more museums than you can sensibly manage in a single trip. Special mention goes to the Museo Nacional de Antropologia, possibly one of the best museums in the world. Further towards the historic centre, you’ll find the Belles Artes building, the Torre Latinamerica and the Zocalo main square, where the enormous cathedral sits beside the ruins of the ancient Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan.
Having visited before, we headed in the opposite direction to see some alternative cultural showpieces, Museo Soumaya, with its silver honeycomb shell and enormous Rodin collection, and Museo Jumex, where contemporary art likes to surprise you when you least expect it. Like us you may, naturally, stumble into the adjoining Plaza Carso mall, proving that art and retail therapy are practically cousins.
If shopping is your thing, Avenida Presidente Masaryk, often dubbed Mexico’s Fifth Avenue, is lined with designer boutiques that might tempt you to ‘just browse’ until your credit card begins to whimper. But Polanco isn’t only about luxury – it’s also about cafés, leafy side streets, and people-watching. Here, taking a stroll can easily turn into an afternoon’s entertainment and everything is within easy reach of the Kimpton Virgilio.
A Spa Interlude at Moor Spa + Nails
Travel can be thrilling, but it can also tie you in knots, sometimes literally. Our wanderings through Polanco (and a hot tip!) led us to Moor Spa + Nails, a nearby sanctuary tucked discreetly into the Plaza Carso shopping centre. Despite the unassuming location, this place is definitely worth a visit.
Charlotte’s therapist kneaded away years of tension, and she emerged looking like she’d been rewired by a benevolent deity, raving that this was one of the best massages she’s ever had. With my penchant for much more gentle pressure, I floated out convinced my bones had turned to clouds. The city outside seemed softer, friendlier, more choreographed than chaotic. Even the traffic seemed almost soothing. Sometimes, the right massage does more than pamper; it recalibrates the way you see the world.
Evenings and Goodbyes
Evenings at Kimpton Virgilio are all about transformation. The courtyard that basked in morning light now flickers with shadows and warm glow, while the rooftop buzzes with live music and cocktails. For guests, there’s also a social hour at the hotel offering a complimentary daily cocktail creation and some snacks. We challenged barman Jonathan Ivan to follow this with two of our favourites – an aviation and a spicy margarita – and he didn’t disappoint. The hotel itself seems to shift alongside you: calm when you need it, energetic when you don’t, always just a step ahead of your mood.
Kimpton Virgilio is a wonderful boutique hotel. It’s a slice of Mexico City history wrapped in Art Deco charm, reimagined for travellers who like their culture served with a side of flair. It balances past and present, quiet and lively, indulgence and simplicity. Most of all, it makes you feel like you’re part of the neighbourhood’s story, not just a visitor passing through.
Mexico City may be vast, layered, and endlessly energetic, but here in this leafy corner of Polanco, you’ll find a rhythm that is both calm and classy. And when a hotel manages to do that, you know you’ve found somewhere worth revisiting.
Kimpton Virgilio
Virgilio #7,
Col. Polanco, III Sección
Mexico City CDMX
Mexico
