If you like mornings that smell of apple orchards and afternoons spent beside a crackling fire, Hotel Misión Cerocahui is a place where these things and more are possible. Nestled in a valley surrounded by the rugged Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon), the hotel feels like a secret waiting to be discovered, twelve kilometres from Bahuichivo station in the state of Chihuahua where the legendary Chihuahua al Pacífico train, or El Chepe, makes a daily stop.
Arrival and First Impressions
Our journey from the station was a preview of the magic to come. A winding mountain road revealed unusual rock formations, bubbling streams, and glimpses of the valley below, all framed by the endless expanse of mountains. Our driver Raul navigated the curves with calm assurance, and by the time we glimpsed the Hotel Misión Cerocahui, surrounded by orchards and vineyards, we were already enchanted.
The first thing you notice is the historic mission church across the lane. Its altar, dating back to the mid-1700s, is remarkably well preserved and the church serves this small community of Mestizo settlers as well as some of the Rarámuri indigenous groups from the surrounding area. Founded in 1694 by Jesuit missionaries, the village itself feels suspended in time, a blend of history and natural beauty that immediately sets the tone for a stay at Hotel Misión Cerocahui.
Life at the Hotel Misión Cerocahui
Stepping inside, the lobby greets you with warmth, literally and figuratively. A grand fireplace dominates the space, flames flickering in a way that makes you want to curl up with a cup of coffee or a glass of the house wine (more on this later…). We were welcomed by General Manager Gabriela and had time to explore the comfortable seating areas, bar and the adjoining dining room, which make the space feel simultaneously grand and intimate. Local crafts and a small gift shop add charm and a reminder that this is not just a hotel, it’s a gateway into the region’s culture.
The hotel is arranged like a lodge, with single story wooden buildings housing rustic but comfortable accommodations. Facilities and amenities are of a high standard; having your own wood stove in your room is a luxury, but the vintage furniture makes it feel homely and appropriate to the rural setting. There is also a small pool, so if the weather gets toasty, you can have a dip to freshen up.
The gardens and orchards surrounding the property are perfect for a slow wander and we were able to take a tour of the vineyards, as well as have a peek into their winemaking facilities. Being particularly keen on wine, we had a lot of questions for Sergio, the head of winemaking on the property, and we found out that grapes had been grown since the 80s on this land, including chardonnay, tempranillo, merlot and cabernet sauvignon.
In the evening, the scent of blossoms drifts through the air, mingling with the faintly sweet aroma of fruit ripening on the trees. We admired the rows of grapes that would become the hotel’s own wine, letting the quiet hum of the valley soak into our bones, and admired the hummingbirds coming to feast on the food that had been left for them.
Food and Wine in Cerocahui
As you can imagine, dining options somewhere so rural can be very limited, so the Hotel Misión Cerocahui has to please a captive audience of guests. We warmed ourselves by a fireplace in the garden, enjoying a tasting of the hotel’s own wines, presented by Leo and Anna, who explained the profile of each wine. The Hotel Misión Cerocahui produces five wines, including three reds, one white and one rosé. Our favourite was the rosé, Vino De Mi Madre, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, tempranillo and merlot, which was strong with aroma of stone fruit that continued on the palate, with a cherry finish.
Executive Chef Paris Abreu works across all the Balderrama Hotel Collection in Mexico and we were able to meet him and hear about his exciting journey back to his home country of Mexico via a stint in a remote part of Northern Canada. The menu celebrates local flavours and the bounty of the surrounding orchards and gardens, and enjoying meals with the estate’s own wines made the experience feel full-circle, connected to the land in every sense.
We started with a soup of local cheeses (what could be better than a cheese soup?!) and irresistible brioche rolls, then enjoyed some local beef with a meat sauce and a pommes anna layered potato side. The star of this particular show was the brownie dessert which was all the gooey, crumbly chocolately deliciousness that I needed to end my day.
Activities and Adventures
Hotel Misión Cerocahui is a base for adventure as much as it is a retreat. Excursions are possible that include horse riding, visits to a local mine and hikes around the rugged terrain. Our driver Raul took us to the Barranca de Urique overlook, where the canyon stretched like a painted canvas, colours shifting with the afternoon sun. Standing looking out over the Barranca de Urique, which is deeper and longer than the Grand Canyon in Arizona, you can’t help but feel the power and scale of nature. Raul was kind enough to answer questions about the local flora and fauna, although it was clear that his passion lay in a more sporting direction…
It is through this valley that the Ultra Maratón Caballo Blanco takes place, featured in the famous book Born To Run, by Christopher McDougall. Raul’s extensive knowledge about the race is impressive, exceeded only by his respect for the local Rarámuri people, for whom running long distances is a way of life (and who regularly compete with great success in the ultramarathon!).
Back at the hotel, life slowed again. Nightfall at Misión Cerocahui is quiet and almost reverential. The valley exhales as the stars emerge, and the distant sound of the wildlife feels like part of a living, breathing atlas. Sitting in the garden with a glass of wine, the mountains silhouetted against a fading sky, it’s impossible not to feel both humbled and restored.
Hotel Misión Cerocahui is a retreat for the senses, a place where history, nature, and comfort coexist effortlessly. From the moment you wind down the mountain road, past streams and orchards, to the evenings by the fireplace, it’s a sanctuary that invites reflection, adventure, and quiet indulgence. Whether exploring vineyards, learning about indigenous people or the natural surroundings, or simply breathing in the valley air, you leave feeling connected – to the land, to history, and, perhaps, to yourself.
Hotel Misión Cerocahui
Cerocahui 33421
Urique
Chihuahua
Mexico
