- LOCAL AREA: Val Thorens
- CONNECTED AREA: Les 3 Vallées
- SEASON START & END: Middle November to the beginning of May
- SKI ALTITUDE IN METRES: 2300 – 3230m / Vertical descent: 930m
- PISTES:
- Local Resort: 150km of pistes / 78 pistes (10 green / 35 blue / 26 red / 7 black)
- Orelle (included in ski pass): 9 pistes (1 green / 4 blue / 3 red / 1 black)
- Connected Area: Les 3 Vallées 600km of piste (53 Green / 141 blue / 117 red / 36 black)
- LIFTS:
- Local Resort: 22 lifts (1 Cable car / 4 Funitels / 4 Gondolas / 10 chairlifts / 1 drag lift / 3 carpets)
- Orelle 6 lifts (2 Gondolas / 3 chairlifts / 1 carpet)
- SNOW: 526 snow canons
- LIFT TICKET PRICES: See Online
- CROSS COUNTRY SKIING: none
- LANGUAGE: French
- AIRPORT: Chambéry 121km / Lyon 197km / Geneva 154km
- TRAIN: Moûtiers Salins Brides-Les-Bains (40km)
- SKI FACTS:
- Val Thorens is the highest resort in Europe and the highest point of the 3 Valleys area.
- 99% of the skiing is above 2000m
- Les 3 Vallées is the largest ski area in the world with more than 600 km of slopes.
- Located in the heart of a vast natural cirque dominated by its 6 glaciers, the ski resort of Val Thorens offers a multitude of routes for skiing in the sun all day long.
- Renowned for the quality of its snow and its state-of-the-art ski lifts.
- Most of the accommodation is Ski-in/ski-out
Val Thorens, The Town
As one climbs the winding road past Saint Martin de Belleville and Les Menuires, the mountains begin to shrug off their greenery. Gone are the familiar firs and pines, and in their place is a stark expanse of rock and snow that feels delightfully otherworldly. Skiing here is quite literally on another level. The fact that it emerged in the 1970s perhaps explains the slightly experimental architecture. Yet, for a resort born in that era, Val Thorens actually pulls off its look with confidence. It may not win awards for quaint Alpine charm, but there are plans to rejuvenate the shopping area and the overall aesthetic, with a brand new sports centre soon to appear on the horizon.
Where accommodation is concerned, Val Thorens delivers the full spectrum. There are apartment hotels, luxury apartments and even five-star wonders. Our base was the Hotel Altapura Val Thorens. A ski-in ski-out delight with three restaurants, a spa and a free shuttle running us around the resort. The terrace sits practically on the piste, which makes for ideal people watching and even better sun soaking. The ski rental shop is excellent, and the ski locker room opens straight onto the snow. Another good option to locate yourself is at the Hotel Pashmina, possibly one of the highest altitude hotels in Val Thorens, with outstanding views.
Over the years, Val Thorens has adopted something of a party reputation. University trips and international visitors infuse the place with youthful energy, which keeps things lively long after the pistes close.
Dining in town is as much an exploration as skiing the pistes. Dinner at La Cabane is a must, with its cosy wood interior, sheepskins and vintage Chautrusse posters. The cheese fondue Savoie was the sort that dreams are made of.
Dinner at Chez Pépé Nicolas is an adventure in its own right. One must take a shuttle from Val Thorens to Les Menuires, followed by a six to eight-minute walk through the snow. Warm shoes and a torch are essential. The reward is a charming farmstead where everything on the menu is crafted right there, even the cheese. My burger was possibly the finest I have ever enjoyed, and Charlotte’s truffle fondue for one was a revelation. The truffle flavour was delicate, and the treasured grandmother at the bottom of the pot required an archaeological level of perseverance to excavate, but worth every mouthful. Cute, rustic and utterly unforgettable.
Alpen Art restaurant is another gem. Small, intimate and relaxed with classic French dishes such as Savoy snails, crispy farm-made Reblochon cheese, an assortment of fondue varieties and desserts that demand immediate indulgence.
Val Thorens, The Skiing
Val Thorens is renowned for being snow sure. At this altitude, if there is no sno,w then civilisation may well be drawing to a close. Being a young resort, the planning is thoughtful, and the lift system is modern and impressively quick. One hops on a lift, begins a conversation and moments later finds oneself at the top. This, of course, maximises the time available for descending, which is the whole point of the exercise.
The ski-in ski-out nature of the resort means rolling out of bed and stepping into your skis with no fuss whatsoever. There is no tree skiing here. When the weather closes in and visibility plummets, it becomes an opportunity to improve technique rather than indulge in scenic admiration. A word to the wise, several pistes converge in the centre of the resort, where the nursery slopes are located, so keep your speed modest and your wits fully engaged. The resort forms a large horseshoe, allowing skiers to chase the sun throughout the day.
In the 1970s, the glaciers here were vast. Evidence remains in the form of moraines flanking the pistes, a silent reminder of how extensive they once were. The changing permafrost has even forced the lift company to move certain stations and pylons.
We loved skiing over to the Orelle ski area. The pistes are high, long and exhilarating. There is even a gondola that ascends from Italy. A handful of excellent pistes sweep down to the mid-station. The whole area feels wild and remote, an exhilarating contrast to the bustling central resort. Of course, it goes without saying, one can also ski over to the other ski resorts of Les 3 Vallées, such as Courchevel or St Martin de Belleville.
When it comes to skiing, calorie intake at altitude is non-negotiable. For mountain dining, La Rotisserie at Hotel Fahrenheit 7 is top of the list; their Baby Lobster Roll is sublime.
Lunch at Chalet des deux ours is an absolute treat. I highly recommend the French onion soup with croutons and the spaghetti carbonara, which reaches levels of pure satisfaction.
Due to the fact that many of the pistes intertwine through Val Thorens, one can also nip into town for lunch.
Beginners
With eleven green slopes and thirty-three blue slopes, Val Thorens is an ideal starting point for beginners. The green pistes are located conveniently around the town, allowing new skiers to build confidence. The free magic carpet lifts are a fantastic perk and provide easy access. Roc is a gentle and enjoyable introduction to the mountains.
Intermediates
Intermediates will be thoroughly entertained here. With excellent snow conditions and the enormity of Les Trois Vallées within reach, the options are endless. Particular favourites include the Mauriennaise from Col de Rosael down to Plan Bouchet. Blue pistes such as Fond, Peyron, Plateau, Tétras, Blanchot and Tête Ronde are sublime for carving. Red pistes Bouchet and Béranger provide just the right level of excitement.
Advanced
Advanced skiers will devour this terrain. Many pistes are so enjoyable that repetition becomes irresistible. Most black pistes are located high around the Cols, such as Combe Rosaël and Combe de Caron. Flying through deep fresh snow on Boismint brought me the kind of grin usually reserved for childhood Christmas mornings.
ECOLOGY & SUSTAINABILITY FACTS:
On May 30, 2022, the Vallée des Belleville, where Val Thorens is located, obtained the Flocon Vert label “Green Snowflake”, rewarding the ecological work carried out over many years. This covers:
- -Limit Val Thoren’s impact on the climate and adapt to changes.
- -Preserve Val Thoren’s resources.
- -Respect biodiversity and landscapes.
- -Improve the quality of life of Val Thoren’s residents all year round and maintain a -balanced demographic.
- -Create and maintain employment and skills.
For more details, visit online.
