There is a certain thrill to stepping into Saison by Mauro Colagreco at night. Beneath a glass ceiling that promises daylight but delivers the dark sky, the indoor palm court-style area feels like a secret garden nook, where the Mediterranean meets the imagination. Even within Raffles London at The Old War Office, a most British building, the enduring affection for the Riviera whispers through the white trellised walls. October eighteenth, the anticipation was almost as ripe as the dishes themselves. With the days growing shorter, what better time to visit Saison, where Mauro Colagreco, the genius behind three Michelin-starred Mirazur, brings his passion for Mediterranean cuisine to a relaxed yet exacting seasonal experience.
From the moment we arrived, the service at Saison was impeccable. Anis, the floor manager, navigated the space with a calm authority, while Heidi, the sommelier, approached each course with a quiet confidence, offering pairings that seemed tailored to every nuance on the plate. There was no hurry, no artifice, just the kind of professional warmth that makes a meal feel curated rather than performed.
Our evening began with a glass of Saison’s house pour, Louis Roederer champagne, the light bubbles tickling the palate and preparing the stomach for more deliciousness ahead. This immediately arrived in the form of a basket of bread, accompanied by Aix-en-Provence olive oil. The focaccia was salty and moist, perfectly holding its own against the gently bitter olive oil. The combination felt like the first bite of autumn, the feasting season, an introduction that prompted us to order both starters from the seasonal tasting menu, which, at the time of visiting, highlighted the glorious apple.
The first starter was the Scottish roasted langoustine with Egremont Russet apple, verbena, and almond. Three langoustines rested on a glossy green bed of shredded apple, the sweetness tempered by the subtle tang of verbena and the added texture of pumpkin seeds. The apple carried the dish rather than overpowering it, and the Quincy Quartz sauvignon blanc lifted the seafood with its vibrant notes.
Charlotte had chosen the salt-baked beetroot with Discovery apple, horseradish, and walnut. The beetroot was soft, almost melting on the tongue, while the apple maintained a crisp counterpoint. Hazelnuts and the gentle horseradish crème created layers of texture and flavour. The Leyda Reserva Pinot Noir 2023 from Chile was light and earthy, its tannins echoing the deep richness of the beetroot. The pairing emphasised the earthy undertones of the beetroot while allowing the apple to shine.
Our choices for the main course were from the standard à la carte menu, and brought us to the Cornish monkfish with sea beets, barratiere (a type of green melon), crème fraîche, Chartreuse, cucumber, gherkin sauce, and courgette slivers. Two hefty chunks of monkfish were meaty and satisfying; the tartness of the gherkin sauce cut through the creamy Chartreuse-spiked sauce while the bitter cabbage notes added complexity. A Nossa Calcário Bical 2023, minerally and precise, accompanied this course and mirrored the dish’s minerality, refreshing the palate between bites.
The lobster Bolognese arrived with homemade spaghetti alla chitarra, lemon, dill, and a bisque sauce. Micro-vegetable squares dotted the little pile of lobster pieces piled on one side, while the spaghetti was coated in the rich bisque. A subtle sweetness ran through the dish, tempered by the brightness of lemon and the herbal lift of dill. Each mouthful felt generous, the pasta holding the lobster in perfect company.
To finish, in an almost unprecedented move, I chose to skip the dessert in favour of a selection of British cheeses, which we shared. The cheeses included were Gouda, cheddar, Red Leicester, and goats cheese, accompanied by grapes and thin crisp crackers. To accompany, some Ramos Pinto RP10, a ten-year-old tawny port from Quinta De Ervamoria, arrived as the final flourish. The port was indulgent but not cloying, its nutty, dried fruit notes complementing the cheeses beautifully. It felt like a sweet sigh at the end of an autumn walk, a moment of calm reflection on the layers of the evening.
Saison at night transforms its glass-ceilinged palm court into something almost magical. The cosy atmosphere allows the dishes to shine and the ingredients take centre stage. Service never distracts, but quietly guides the evening, and the wines seem to have been chosen for no other reason than to make each dish sing.
This restaurant is very appropriately named, with the curated menus highlighting the most sustainably sourced and seasonal ingredients. The apple menu continued until the 18th of October, but was followed by a pumpkin menu, which we are determined to return to enjoy – pumpkin is a shared favourite! For now, Saison delivers an autumnal harvest feast that rewards delighted diners every night, but the combination of mood, mastery, and subtle Mediterranean flair leaves a lingering impression, one that invites you to return and see what the next season will bear.
Saison by Mauro Colagreco
Raffles London at The OWO
57 Whitehall
SW1A 2BX
United Kingdom
