Autumn in the Alps is often the season that slips quietly between the sunlit joy of summer and the snow-dusted magic of winter. It’s a time of golden larches, crisp mornings, and peaceful trails, a hidden gem of a season when the mountains exhale and you can finally breathe them in properly. This year, Adam and I decided to embrace that stillness and head to the Austrian Alps to experience a place I’d long been curious about, the Lürzerhof, a luxurious wellness and spa hotel in Untertauern that sits perfectly poised between nature, tradition, and elegant indulgence.
Room with a View
Karin kindly checked us in under the autumn sunshine with a chilled glass of rosé on the terrace, and we immediately knew we had found something special. The Lürzerhof is one of those rare places where first impressions only deepen with time.
Our suite was nothing short of spectacular, a private alpine sanctuary that perfectly encapsulated the hotel’s balance of sophistication and soul. Designed with understated luxury, the Tauern Lodge blends warm wood, soft lighting, and contemporary furnishings with floor-to-ceiling glass that opens onto one of the most mesmerising views in Untertauern.
Inside, everything had been thought of with quiet precision. The king-sized bed, dressed in crisp linens and plush throws, offered the kind of comfort that makes it impossible to leave in the morning. A cosy daybed area by the window became our favourite spot for slow mornings with coffee, watching the mist rise over the valley.
The bathroom was equally indulgent, all sleek stone and wood, complete with a deep freestanding bathtub and two infrared chairs, perfect for long soaks after a day’s hiking. Heated floors, fluffy robes, and those thoughtful Austrian touches made the space feel both luxurious and deeply personal.
What truly struck me, though, was how calm the suite felt. There’s a serenity in its design that invites you to slow down; to open the balcony doors, breathe in the mountain air, and simply be.
Gourmet Delights, Three Ways
Food is at the heart of life at the Lürzerhof, and their in-house restaurant is an experience in itself. What I loved most was the diversity of choice, three carefully curated menus each evening: local, international, and vegan. Every meal felt like a celebration of flavour, crafted with creativity and respect for ingredients.
Breakfasts were a joy, an abundant spread of fruits, breads, pastries, and local cheeses, accompanied by freshly squeezed juices and barista-style coffee. Lunch was lighter but still indulgent, often enjoyed on the terrace, with mountain views as our backdrop.
Evenings, however, were pure theatre. On our first night, Adam opted for the local menu, featuring a perfectly balanced consommé with speck dumpling, followed by pink pork sous vide, beautifully cooked and paired with delicate seasonal vegetables. I chose the two-way venison, rich and earthy with autumnal flavours that danced on the plate.
Service here is both professional and personal, a rare blend that makes you feel genuinely cared for. Luka, our charming Croatian waiter, was chatty and full of stories, while Julia from Schladming welcomed us each night with her trademark warm smile. The dining room itself strikes a beautiful balance between modern design and alpine cosiness, with soft lighting and rustic wood touches.
And when the evening wound down, we found ourselves drawn to the bar. Laszio, the Hungarian bartender, and Sebastian, a local with a great sense of humour, mixed one of the best Amaretto Sours I’ve ever had, tangy, smooth, and perfectly balanced. One night, the owner invited us for a homemade schnapps tasting in their on-site distillery, a delightful insight into Austrian tradition. The Williams pear schnapps, smooth and gently perfumed, quickly became our favourite.
Hiking, Waterfalls, and Kaiserschmarrn
The Lürzerhof is perfectly positioned for those who love to explore. While winter draws skiers from around the world, autumn reveals a quieter side of Obertauern, one made for hiking boots and camera lenses.
We spent a memorable day hiking through the three-lakes route in Obertauern, a high-altitude trail that rewards every step with breathtaking views. The air was cool and clean, and the lakes shimmered like mirrors under the mountain light. After such exertion, we treated ourselves to a well-earned snack at the hotel’s mountain retreat, the Gnadenalm.
There, Roland from Hungary served us an amazing Kaiserschmarrn, warm, caramelised, and dusted with icing sugar, paired, naturally, with an Aperol Spritz. Sitting outside in the sun, surrounded by mountain peaks, felt like a scene from an Austrian fairytale.
Another highlight was a group hike with Viviane, who leads guests on local excursions. Our destination: a nearby waterfall that was simply magical in autumn. The sound of rushing water framed by fiery leaves was pure poetry. Viviane’s knowledge of the area and her passion for wellness also extended into the hotel’s event saunas, where themed sauna experiences add a touch of theatre to relaxation.
Spa Serenity
The Lürzerhof spa deserves an entire chapter of its own. This is not just a wellness area, it’s an immersive sanctuary. The outdoor infinity pools, natural bathing pond, and the adults-only spa form an interconnected world of water, light, and tranquillity. Floating in the warm pool as the mountain air brushed across my face was one of those perfect, quiet moments that stay with you long after you leave.
Inside, the saunas, steam rooms, and relaxation zones are all beautifully designed, offering both privacy and space. The scent of essential oils lingers in the air, and the entire atmosphere encourages stillness.
Adam and I both indulged in massages, and my Lomi Lomi with Mary was nothing short of transformative. Using an oil infused with mango, banana, and lemon, she worked with rhythmic, flowing motions set to gentle Hawaiian music. It was a full-body treatment, including the stomach, head, and face, performed with Hawaiian sarongs instead of towels, creating an enveloping sense of connection and care. When it ended, I felt both grounded and weightless.
A New Perspective on the Alps
Before this trip, I had always associated the Austrian Alps with the shimmer of snow and the excitement of skiing. But visiting in autumn completely changed my perspective. There’s a depth to this season, a slower, richer rhythm that allows you to connect with nature more intimately. The trails are quiet, the colours are magnificent, and the crisp air makes every meal, every glass of wine, every soak in the pool feel somehow more vivid.
The Lürzerhof is more than a hotel; it’s a haven. From the heartfelt welcome by Karin to the repartee shared with the bar and restaurant team, every detail felt personal. Whether it was hiking through golden valleys, indulging in heavenly spa treatments, or simply sitting on our terrace watching the sun dip behind the peaks, every moment here carried that rare sense of authenticity and care.
Autumn at the Lürzerhof isn’t a pause between seasons; it’s a season of its own, full of warmth, beauty, and discovery. As we drove away, I found myself already planning our return, perhaps next autumn, to once again watch the mountains turn to gold from the comfort of our Tauern Lodge suite. Because sometimes, the greatest journeys aren’t about chasing adventure, they are about finding stillness, and letting a place like the Lürzerhof remind you just how beautiful that can be.
Lürzerhof Nature Spa Resort
Dorfstraße 23
5561 Untertauern
Austria
