- LOCAL AREA: Adelboden-Lenk
- CONNECTED AREA: The ski region itself is made up of 5 sub-areas: Elsigen-Metsch, Tschentenalp, Engstligenalp, the main “Adelboden-Lenk” area and Betelberg.
- SEASON START & END: End November – Mid April. The Engstligenalp area is open until May.
- SKI ALTITUDE IN METRES: 1,070 m – 2,350 m / Vertical Descent 1,280 m
- PISTES: The total ski region includes 200 km of slopes
- In the “main resort” part of Adelboden-Lenk: 85 km of pistes: ( 46 km blue / 32 km red / 6 km black
- LIFTS: Total 63
- SNOW: About 60% of the main slopes are covered by artificial snowmaking.
- LIFT TICKET PRICES: For prices, see Online. Prices vary with date and demand.
- CROSS COUNTRY SKIING: In the districts of Boden and on the Engstligenalp. The Engstligenalp has a total of 25km of cross-country tracks.
- LANGUAGE: Swiss-German
- AIRPORT: Zurich 190km / Basel 170km / Geneva 220km
- TRAIN: There are trains to nearby hubs: Frutigen / Zweisimmen) then take the bus to Adelboden.
- SKI FACTS:
- As a famous venue for the Audi FIS Ski World Cup, the ski region is one of the top ski regions in the Bernese Oberland.
- The region is characterised by exceptionally high-quality slopes, which have received multiple awards.
- The region offers one of the longest fun slopes in Switzerland. Special pistes, ski cross, snow parks and more than 30 additional fun features for an extra dose of variety
Adelboden, the town
Tucked deep into the Bernese Alps, Adelboden is the sort of place that seems so idyllic today that one could almost forget life here was once as tough as frozen boots. Before the arrival of tourists, winters were brutal and coaxing anything edible out of the valley floor required more optimism than daylight. Unsurprisingly, many locals packed their bags and tried their luck in Canada and the United States. One suspects they imagined winters could not possibly be worse, which is debatable.
Everything changed in 1872 when a priest from Bern arrived. He was Adelboden’s first paying tourist. Farmers, being entrepreneurial sorts, promptly built a hotel. The priest returned the following year with guests, and the rest, as they say, is history. The farmers most likely wondered why they had not thought of it sooner.
The momentum stalled during the First World War. Many farmers, burdened by the economic hardships of the era, sadly went bankrupt. Yet the British began to arrive in such enthusiastic numbers that an English church was built, proof that early British tourists were extremely committed to maintaining their traditions, even at 1,350 metres.
Tourism once again evaporated during the Second World War. Adelboden became the temporary home to several British and American pilots who ended up here after landing in Zurich. As far as wartime detentions go, being stuck in a Swiss mountain village must have felt like a rather decent upgrade. Many of those pilots returned as visitors year after year, which is both touching and entirely understandable.
With peace came prosperity. Holiday homes appeared as the wealthy sought refuge in the mountains and brought investment with them. In 1943, the first T-bar was constructed, which began Adelboden’s ascent, figuratively and literally, into ski resort stardom. Yet despite steady growth, the town has fiercely protected its soul. Adelboden has a strict limit. No more than 15,000 to 20,000 guests are permitted at peak periods. Beyond that, it simply refuses to get bigger, preserving its culture, charm and sanity.
Today, approximately 3,000 people call Adelboden home. Farming remains central to local life, with a charming seasonal migration between three farmhouses, one for winter, one for spring and one for summer. Cows, unlike tourists, require constant relocation. Summer brings Berner Hobelkäse, a cheese so delicious it should be illegal, and winter brings ski-lift work. The whole year brings a gentle rhythm that has kept Adelboden authentically and stubbornly itself.
Staying in Adelboden: The Cambrian
We stayed at the Cambrian, a hotel so strikingly beautiful that one suspects the designers may have made a pact with the Alpine gods. Renovated in 2010 by two Welsh brothers, the hotel is as stylish as it is welcoming. Every detail has been considered, curated and refined. The food is superb. One can dine extremely well at altitude without being restricted to fondue.
Adelboden, the skiing
Adelboden is not one ski area. It is a collection of distinct mountains, each with its own quirks, character and loyal devotees.
Adelboden main ski area, Silleren & Chuenisbärgli
One can take the gondola from town, a scenic 30-minute ride, or hop on the bus to Geils. As you ascend the gondola, look left and admire the legendary Chuenisbärgli World Cup slalom slope, where Britain’s Dave Ryding earned a bronze in 2021. It was a proud moment for the United Kingdom, which continues to treat snow as an occasional novelty.
At Bergläger, the main area spreads before you like a vast snowy amphitheatre. The bowl-shaped terrain hosts a mix of blue, red and black pistes, and the north-facing runs are particularly good. Ski far enough, and you will find yourself in neighbouring Lenk, a charming extension to an already generous network.
For the return to Adelboden, early intermediates may prefer the gondola. The ski-back involves a steep red, followed by a long forest track that becomes something of a character-building exercise in late afternoon slush. Despite the effort, it is undeniably satisfying and fun if your legs remain semi-functional.
Lunch at Geilsbrüggli is highly recommended. Their chicken schnitzel and trio of dumplings were so Austrian we briefly wondered which country we were in.
Tschentenalp sits aside from the main areas and is Adelboden’s low-key secret. With regular race training and enviably quiet slopes, it is exactly the sort of place locals only mention after ensuring you are unlikely to tell anyone else.
Elsigen and Metsch
A 20 to 25-minute drive from Adelboden brings you to Elsigen and Metsch. The final approach is a narrow alpine road that ends in a farmer’s field used as a car park. The ski area is tucked inside a hidden bowl framed by towering peaks. It feels proudly and stubbornly local.
Elsigen offers a tranquil experience with a handful of T-bars, a long, sedate black run and links to Metsch. The drags at Metsch lift you to some excellent terrain, including the fantastic black piste number 113. Your thighs may complain, but your skiing will thank you.
Lunch at Berghaus Elsigenalp was exceptional. The saffron soup was legendary, and the pork schnitzel was crisp perfection. The area is beloved by Swiss children, retirees and locals in the know. It is a rare glimpse into authentic Swiss skiing.
Engstligenalp
Drive or take the bus south to Unter Dem Burg, then take the Engstligenalp cable car up to a 1,964 metre plateau that feels like a world of its own. The skiing is served by six drag lifts and includes a superb beginner area. Higher up, the main T-bars rise to 2,362 metres and serve an excellent blend of blues, reds and blacks. Engstligenalp is the largest plateau in the western Swiss Alps.
The north-facing pistes here are ideal for carving, with consistent snow and perfect pitch. Thanks to its altitude and minimal sun exposure, Engstligenalp often stays open until May. It is one of the best options for late-season turns.
Lunch at the Raclette Hut was a highlight. Rösti layered with cheese and bacon, raclette with speck and a Swiss meringue that guaranteed a dramatic drop in skiing productivity afterwards. The rustic interior and wide mountain views make this one of the most memorable mountain restaurants in Adelboden.
Beginners
Adelboden offers a wide choice of friendly learning zones. Ausserschwand near town has a dedicated nursery area. Geils in the main Adelboden skiing area offers a purpose-built learner zone without interference from other skiers. Elsigen has excellent drag served blues, including pistes 125 and 127, with piste 120 as the next step. Engstligenalp’s long blue, piste 102, is ideal once confidence grows. Check out Tschentenalp for its gentle blue, piste 72.
Intermediates
Elsigen and Metsch provide outstanding intermediate skiing with quiet slopes and ample room to roam. At Engstligenalp, the red piste 104 is a fun, winding descent and is best skied early in the day before the sun softens it. The main skiing area of Adelboden is a winter Garden of Eden for the intermediate skier. Go forth and enjoy every inch of these mountains, my friend.
Experts
Adelboden’s main area has a strong selection of challenging black pistes. Black piste 40 is an ideal first black. The steep sections are broken up by flats, providing welcome moments to regain composure. Elsigen and Metsch have the long, gentle and usually empty black piste 122. At Engstligenalp, pistes 100 and 101 offer steep, satisfying skiing. This is where Charlotte achieved her highest CARV score to date.
Final Thoughts
Adelboden is a village that has weathered hardship, embraced tourism and protected its identity with determination. Its ski areas are varied, its food is outstanding, and its landscape is unforgettable. It remains proudly Swiss, quietly confident and endlessly charming.
It is the kind of place you visit once and then, much like those wartime pilots, feel compelled to return year after year.
Ecology & Sustainability
- Some areas are Swisstainable certified
- Some facilities are powered by solar energy.
- Snowmaking is carried out sustainably using the resort’s own reservoirs.
For more information, visit Adelboden
