- LOCAL AREA: Serre Chevalier Vallée Briançon
- SEASON START & END: mid December – mid-April
- SKI ALTITUDE IN METRES: 1200m (Briançon) – 2800m (Monêtier)
- Vertical Drop: 1600m
- PISTES: 250km / 80 slopes: 13 black / 28 red / 25 blue / 14 green
- LIFTS: Total 58: Cable Car 1 / Gondola 5 / Chair Lifts 20 / Drag Lifts 25 / “Telecorde” 2 / Carpet Lift: 5
- SNOW: 600 snow cannons
- LIFT TICKET PRICES: See Online
- CROSS COUNTRY SKIING: 45km
- LANGUAGE: French
- AIRPORT: Turin, Italy 115km / Grenoble 158km / Lyon 205km / Milan Malpensa 228km / Milan Linate 268km / Marseille 256km
- TRAIN: Briançon 0km / Oulx, Italy 30km / Grenoble 117km
- SKI FACTS:
- -80% of pistes are above 2000 metres, which means guaranteed snow
- A high tree line of 2150 metres means 700 metres of treelined skiing
Serre Chevalier, the towns and city
Serre Chevalier Vallée Briançon sits proudly in the southeastern French Alps. The valley is made up of four distinct areas: Briançon, Chantemerle / Saint Chaffrey, Villeneuve / La Salle les Alpes and Le Monêtier les Bains. Together they form a long, elegant spine of alpine life rather than a single purpose-built hub.
The name Serre Chevalier was adopted in 1968 and has nothing to do with knights on skis, although I wish it did; perhaps there is a new sport in that idea! Serre refers to a hillock, while chevalier describes a ravine carved out by a torrent. Even the crowned eagle logo comes with heritage, borrowed from the coat of arms of the Borel family from the hamlet of Le Bez.
The Romans were early fans, drawn to the natural thermal springs of Monêtier les Bains at a time when Briançon answered to the name Brigantium. Skiing arrived in the early 1900s and took a confident step forward in 1941 with the construction of the first Chantemerle cable car and the Grand Hôtel. Progress has continued ever since, though never at the expense of character.
One of the valley’s most distinctive features is its larch forests. These mélèze trees, specific to the southern Alps, grow up to 2150 metres and provide around 700 metres of vertical tree skiing. They also provide mélèze alcohol, a local liquor that tastes impressively like larch, just drink up the taste of the forest.
Briançon
Briançon is certainly worth a visit and not just because it holds the title of the highest city in France at 1326 metres. The old town is a beauty, wrapped in city walls and threaded by a steep main street that rewards sturdy calves. The Vauban fortifications, an imposing collection of 17th century military structures, are a UNESCO World Heritage site and lend the town an air of quiet authority.
Military history runs deep here, with barracks scattered around the town. Many are now being transformed into accommodation and hotels, proving that even stone walls designed for defence can adapt to comfort. Across the wider valley, one thing stands out. Everyone seems genuinely happy, friendly and welcoming. It feels less like hospitality training and more like a shared appreciation of living somewhere special.
Serre Chevalier, where to eat
Food in Serre Chevalier is reassuringly serious. Dinner at Floucat is a standout, where Olivier, a local lamb farmer, serves his own lamb and sheep alongside burgers, ribs, fish and an impressive list of desserts. Olivier and his three brothers also run a local spirits company, which may explain the cheerful mood in the room.
La Manouille offers something cosier and deeply comforting. The cheese fondue is rich, indulgent and best approached with commitment rather than restraint. This is not the place for half measures or early nights.
Serre Chevalier, two activities not to be missed
Just west of Villeneuve lies the Dog sledding area, where several teams operate with obvious pride. The dogs are beautiful animals and visibly thrilled to see visitors. Theo, our driver, introduced us to his Greenland dogs with the enthusiasm of someone who genuinely loves his work. Flying through the Serre Chevalier valley by sled, followed by time spent meeting each dog, is a magical experience that manages to be both thrilling and calming.
Another essential experience is Les Grands Bains of Monêtier. These natural thermal pools have been used since Roman times and remain just as effective. Three indoor and outdoor pools range from 17°C to a rather luxurious 40°C, supported by saunas, steam rooms and cold plunge pools. It is the perfect antidote to tired legs and overconfident skiing.
Serre Chevalier, the skiing
The skiing is spread across four areas above the main towns of Briançon, Chantemerle, Villeneuve and Le Monêtier les Bains. All look across towards the Parc National des Écrins, with designated nature zones and high altitude terrain that underline a strong commitment to ecological preservation.
With 250 kilometres of piste, there is something for everyone. Many slopes face north, which helps preserve snow quality well into the season, though shaded runs can be cold in mid-winter. Extra layers are sensible unless shivering is part of your après routine.
Above Chantemerle, a vast natural bowl offers wide open pistes for all abilities. Skiers can descend the entertaining black Luc Alphand or take the gentle green Briance, allowing mixed ability groups to share the same mountain without drama.
Over the ridge towards Villeneuve, the terrain flows from steep blacks at the top to wide green pistes below. Further west, above Le Monêtier les Bains, the atmosphere becomes more high altitude terrain with winding pistes and sweeping views. The red Yret piste is a highlight and rewards repeat visits.
Beginners
Villeneuve and Le Monêtier les Bains both have nursery slopes at valley level, while higher learning areas add variety. The green and blue pistes above Chantemerle and Villeneuve are excellent, particularly the green Barres, which is ideal for carving practice. At the top of Col du Prorel above Briançon, beginners should explore the green Bergers before progressing to the blue Chauvet.
Intermediates
Serre Chevalier is a dream for intermediate skiers. Most of the mountain is accessible, encouraging exploration across the entire valley. The pistes above Briançon are particularly enjoyable, with reds like Grande Gargouille twisting down the mountain with picturesque views over the town below.
Experts
Black pistes are spread across the area rather than concentrated in one spot. Long black runs drop from peak to valley through the trees, keeping things interesting. The Eychauda lift serves three strong blacks, while the peaks above Le Monêtier les Bains deliver demanding high altitude skiing that will keep experts thoroughly entertained.
Restaurants on the Mountain
The Sugar Shack, or Cabane à Sucre, delivers a Canadian-influenced experience with warming drinks such as the PCR, a dangerously tasty mix of apple, cinnamon and rum. Guests can make hot honey lollipops, try axe throwing and drink local liquor from an ice glass before launching via a giant sling-shot it at a target. A bullseye earns another drink, which feels entirely fair. There are two locations, one on the blue Myrtilles piste and another at Fréjus.
For lunch, Café Soleil has been serving skiers since 1997 and remains a reliable favourite. Their restaurant, Le Carré, offers both sit-down dining and quick options, with a terrace that seems permanently bathed in sunshine. Aravet 2000 is a glorious sun trap with a large veranda and views of the pistes, serving everything from pizza to local crozets, a Savoyard dish made with buckwheat pasta. Their patisserie is worth saving room for.
Le White brings a south of France beach club vibe to the mountains, with a relaxed atmosphere and a broad menu. Off Piste rounds out the day as both après ski and dinner venue, offering a generous cheese fondue and staying open until 2 am for those whose energy outlasts the lifts.
Serre Chevalier does not shout for attention. It simply delivers, day after day, with confidence, warmth and an impressive sense of scale. It is the kind of place that turns a ski holiday into a proper relationship and leaves you planning a return before you have even packed your boots.
Ecology & Sustainability Facts:
- 30% of the ski area’s energy needs are covered by renewable energy production in the ski area (solar panels, wind turbines and hydroelectric turbines)
- In addition, the ski area has reduced its electricity consumption by 20% over the past three years, thanks in particular to a reduced production of artificial snow.
- Added to this is an 80% reduction in CO2 emissions by switching to HVO (Hydrotreated Vegetable Oil) fuel for all snow groomers, as well as a concrete strategy for biodiversity preservation.
For more information, visit Serre Chevalier
Photos copyright of Serre Chevalier
